Double T Slot Receptacle
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*Double T Slot Receptacle Wall Plate
*Double T Slot Receptacle Adapter
*Double T Slot Receptacle Wiring
*Double T Slot Receptacle Holder
True or false? The NEC requires receptacles to be mounted with the neutral slot on the left. Keep your answer in mind as we take a closer look at Art. 406 requirements. Art. 406 covers the rating, type, and installation of receptacles, cord connectors, and attachment plugs (cord caps). One important requirement of Art. 406 is that you must ground (bond) the grounding terminal of a receptacle to a low-impedance fault current path [250.146, 250.148, and 406.3(C)]. You don’t need to do this, however, if you’re replacing a receptacle and if you comply with the applicable portions of 406.3(D).
The NEC specifies what that low-impedance path is by requiring you to connect the receptacle-grounding terminal to the branch-circuit equipment-grounding conductor (250.146). If you install an isolated ground receptacle, though, follow the requirements of 250.146(D).
*Truly made in the USA, and you can feel the local touch from start to finish. With their DesignPro plugin for Solidworks, you can design a frame in minutes; it’s easy to use, intuitive, and you get a price right on the spot. Their catalog is easy to navigate, even T-slot beginners can build complicated structures.
*NEW Marked ’Controlled’ USB Receptacles! New marked ’controlled’ USB receptacles help comply with NEC Article 406.3(E), CA Title 24, ASHRAE Energy Efficiency Standard 90.1 and other energy codes, while letting facilities staying up-to-date with the latest technology.
Receptacle replacement requirements. If you have a grounding means in the enclosure, use a grounding-type receptacle — even if you’re replacing a nongrounding-type receptacle [406.3(D)]. Make sure you ground (bond) the grounding terminal of that receptacle.
If the enclosure doesn’t have a grounding means — for example, if the box contains old 2-wire NM cable without a ground — you can use a nongrounding type receptacle (Fig. 1). You have two other options as well. You can use a GFCI receptacle if you make sure it’s marked “No Equipment Ground,” or you can use a grounding-type receptacle if it’s GFCI-protected and marked “GFCI Protected” and “No Equipment Ground.”
When you replace a receptacle in a location where GFCI protection is required, the replacement must be GFCI-protected. See 210.8 for GFCI protection requirements.
Most homes in the U.S. Are wired with a combination of 15-amp and 20-amp, 120-volt circuits. Because 15-amp receptacles can be used with 20-amp circuits, most of the outlets you see in American homes are the standard 15-amp variety, with two slots and a U-shaped grounding hole. To add to what others have said, this outlet is called a NEMA 5-20R receptacle and it is still widely in use. The ’NEMA 5’ is a three-wire, single phase device rated for up to 125 volts. The 20 denotes the device is rated for 20 amps. The ’R’ at the end denotes that this is a receptacle. The plug side would be a ’P’.
Test your understanding of this concept with this pop quiz. A relative asks you to replace a failed GFCI receptacle at his home, but you notice the home has a 2-wire system without a ground wire. Will that GFCI provide ground-fault protection?
The answer is yes. GFCI protection functions properly on a 2-wire circuit without an equipment-grounding conductor. The equipment-grounding conductor serves no purpose in the operation of the GFCI protection device (Fig. 2). The GFCI uses a small CT on the neutral and the hot but not on the ground. This information is probably in the instructions that come with the new GFCIs.
Does this mean that if you extend a circuit from an ungrounded box you can install a GFCI? No. Permission to replace nongrounding type receptacles with GFCI-protected grounding-type receptacles doesn’t apply to new outlets that extend from an existing ungrounded outlet box. Once you add a receptacle outlet (branch-circuit extension), the receptacle must be of the grounding type and be grounded per 250.130(C) (Fig. Quinault casino restaurant menu. 3).
This requirement may seem inconsistent, but it’s not. Here’s the logic. Your existing two-wire system was installed per the Code that existed at the time. Today’s NEC doesn’t mandate ripping out existing 2-wire systems and replacing them just so you can add a GFCI. Nor does it allow you to add on to the 2-wire system and just throw in a GFCI. A 3-wire system is safer than a 2-wire system. So if you add to an existing system, what you add must be of the 3-wire configuration — not the 2-wire configuration.
Mounting. Have you ever wondered if you can mount a receptacle in a hobby box you just happen to have lying around or in a cutout in the side of a panel where there’s plenty of room and the receptacle is obviously protected? Stop wondering — you can mount a receptacle only in a box designed for the purpose (406.4). Fasten that box securely in place (314.23).
If you mount a receptacle in a box that’s set back from the wall surface, install it so the mounting yoke of the receptacle is held rigidly to the wall surface. If the receptacle sits back too far, break off the “ears” on the yoke and use them as shim washers on the receptacle mounting screws.
In walls or ceilings of noncombustible material, boxes can’t be set back more than 0.25 inches from the finished surface. In walls or ceilings of combustible material, boxes must be flush with the finished surface (314.20). You can’t have gaps greater than 0.125 inches at the edge of the box (314.21).
If you mount a receptacle in a box that’s flush, install it so the mounting yoke of the receptacle is held rigidly against the box or raised box cover. If the receptacle mounts to the cover, it must be secured to the cover with two screws [406.4(C)] (Fig. 4).
Receptacle faceplates must completely cover the outlet opening and seat firmly against the mounting surface (406.5). If a metal faceplate is used, make sure it’s grounded (bonded) by securing it to the receptacle.
Receptacles in damp or wet locations. You can install a receptacle next to, but not within, a bathtub or shower space. Receptacles must be located at least 5 feet from spas or hot tubs [680.21(A)(1) and 680.43(A)(1)].
Receptacles that are installed outdoors under roofed open porches, canopies, marquees, and similar areas but not subjected to beating rain or water runoff require enclosures that are weatherproof only when the attachment plug cap isn’t inserted and receptacle covers are closed [406.8(A)]. Receptacles installed as such are considered to be in damp locations.Double T Slot Receptacle Wall Plate
Those are the requirements for a damp location, but what if you think you have a wet location? Look up “location, wet” in Art. 100 to find the definition. If your location meets this definition, 406.8(B) applies. All 15A and 20A, 125V and 250V receptacles installed outdoors in a wet location must be within an enclosure and cover that’s weatherproof at all times — even when an attachment plug is inserted.
Any other receptacle in a wet location must comply with one of the two following rules:
*
If the equipment plugged into it isn’t attended while in use, the receptacle must have an enclosure that’s weatherproof with the attachment plug cap inserted or removed.
*
If the equipment plugged into it is attended while in use, the receptacle must have an enclosure that’s weatherproof when the attachment plug is removed.
Suppose you flush-mount an outlet box on a wall surface in a wet location. In such a case, you must make the enclosure weatherproof by using a weatherproof faceplate assembly that provides a watertight connection between the plate and the wall surface.Double T Slot Receptacle Adapter
Overlooked requirements. Familiarity with receptacles can cause you to overlook certain requirements. For example, what kind of receptacle can you use with aluminum wire, and how can you wire it? First, look for the marking CO/AL on the terminal screws. These markings are required for all receptacles rated 20A or less and designed for direct connection with aluminum conductors. If the receptacle is rated higher than 20A, see the manufacturer’s instructions or contact the manufacturer to ensure you’re not violating the UL Listing for that receptacle.
Here’s another fact regarding UL. Per UL requirements, aluminum conductors can’t terminate onto screwless (push-in) terminals of a receptacle. More than one installation has been rejected for this practice.
Suppose you wire a receptacle for isolated ground. Do you know how to identify the right kind of receptacle for such an application? It must have an orange triangle marking on its face [250.146(D)].
The requirements for isolated ground receptacles (IGRs) are also commonly forgotten. Keep these in mind:
*
You can use IGRs only with an insulated grounding conductor installed with the circuit conductors.
*
If you install an IGR in a nonmetallic box, you must cover it with a nonmetallic faceplate because you can’t ground (bond) a metal faceplate in such an installation.
What about that question that opened this discussion? The answer is “false.” The NEC doesn’t specify which way to orient a receptacle. The ground terminal can be up, down, or to the side. In the last few Code cycles, proposals to specify the mounting orientation were all rejected.
However, there’s one exception to this non-specification. If you install a receptacle in a countertop or similar work surface in a dwelling unit, you can’t install it in a face-up position.
No matter how much you think you know about Art. 406, you still might find a surprise or two in it, and that’s a good reason to become familiar with it now rather than at inspection time. You’d hate to be cited for something as “simple” as a receptacle requirement, wouldn’t you?
Author: Terry Peterman What exactly is a kitchen split receptacle circuit, and why the confusion with this common household wiring configuration? I received an e-mail from a website visitor who was wondering if there was a problem with a counter outlet in her home. I answer her question in the following video, article and wiring diagram below:Question Regarding a Kitchen Split Receptacle Circuit:
Q: We have an electrical outlet that has 240 to one plug and the other plug has 120. There are three wires involved in this counter top plug; red white and black.
Red plus white = 120 volts
White plus black = 120 volts
Black and red = 240 volts! Ouch!
Any idea on how to fix? – TrishDouble T Slot Receptacle WiringUnderstanding the Kitchen Split Receptacle Circuit:
Trish, what you have is actually a perfectly normal situation which meets the code rules in many electrical jurisdictions. This is what is known as a split receptacle kitchen circuit.
It is fed by a 2-pole, 15A circuit breaker, and uses 14/2 cable. In this situation, the neutral is shared between the two hot wires (red and black) that come from the panel.Double T Slot Receptacle Holder
You are correct in that you do have 240V between the black and the red conductors. However, the receptacle is wired so as to only have 120V in each half of the duplex receptacle, and the brass tab is broken between the top and the bottom half of the receptacle on the hot (brass) side of the device, but remains intact on the neutral side. This way the two circuits that feed this outlet “share” the neutral connection.Kitchen Split Receptacle Circuit Wiring Diagram:
Because the two circuits are from opposite sides of the panel, the neutral will only carry the unbalance load. So if you are using a toaster plugged into the top half, and it is using 8A on circuit #1, and the coffee maker plugged into the bottom half using 6 amps, then the neutral will only be carrying 2 amps of current back to the panel. The maximum that the neutral conductor will carry on a circuit like this is the maximum that one of the appliances that are plugged in will draw.
The new code now requires all kitchen receptacles to be protected by ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) receptacles, and must have at least two 20A circuits supplying general purpose kitchen receptacles.
Split kitchen receptacles are still quite common, and are still allowed in some jurisdictions. Ouverture geant casino besancon lundi de paques pour. However, where the new code rules have been adopted, the existing installations are grandfathered and are not and will not be mandated to be rewired. I personally like the kitchen 3-wire circuits as I think they offer more flexibility on counter top appliance locations and configurations with plenty of capacity to supply the various power requirements. However, the complicating issue and change motivating factor was the requirement for GFCI protected outlets in the kitchen area, and protection of split circuitry is more complicated and more expensive to achieve than using 20A GFCI receptacles with feed-through capability.
Not sure about tackling this yourself? Remember: Can’t do it yourself? Get help from a qualified electrical contractor/
Related posts:
Register here: http://gg.gg/uugq7
https://diarynote-jp.indered.space
*Double T Slot Receptacle Wall Plate
*Double T Slot Receptacle Adapter
*Double T Slot Receptacle Wiring
*Double T Slot Receptacle Holder
True or false? The NEC requires receptacles to be mounted with the neutral slot on the left. Keep your answer in mind as we take a closer look at Art. 406 requirements. Art. 406 covers the rating, type, and installation of receptacles, cord connectors, and attachment plugs (cord caps). One important requirement of Art. 406 is that you must ground (bond) the grounding terminal of a receptacle to a low-impedance fault current path [250.146, 250.148, and 406.3(C)]. You don’t need to do this, however, if you’re replacing a receptacle and if you comply with the applicable portions of 406.3(D).
The NEC specifies what that low-impedance path is by requiring you to connect the receptacle-grounding terminal to the branch-circuit equipment-grounding conductor (250.146). If you install an isolated ground receptacle, though, follow the requirements of 250.146(D).
*Truly made in the USA, and you can feel the local touch from start to finish. With their DesignPro plugin for Solidworks, you can design a frame in minutes; it’s easy to use, intuitive, and you get a price right on the spot. Their catalog is easy to navigate, even T-slot beginners can build complicated structures.
*NEW Marked ’Controlled’ USB Receptacles! New marked ’controlled’ USB receptacles help comply with NEC Article 406.3(E), CA Title 24, ASHRAE Energy Efficiency Standard 90.1 and other energy codes, while letting facilities staying up-to-date with the latest technology.
Receptacle replacement requirements. If you have a grounding means in the enclosure, use a grounding-type receptacle — even if you’re replacing a nongrounding-type receptacle [406.3(D)]. Make sure you ground (bond) the grounding terminal of that receptacle.
If the enclosure doesn’t have a grounding means — for example, if the box contains old 2-wire NM cable without a ground — you can use a nongrounding type receptacle (Fig. 1). You have two other options as well. You can use a GFCI receptacle if you make sure it’s marked “No Equipment Ground,” or you can use a grounding-type receptacle if it’s GFCI-protected and marked “GFCI Protected” and “No Equipment Ground.”
When you replace a receptacle in a location where GFCI protection is required, the replacement must be GFCI-protected. See 210.8 for GFCI protection requirements.
Most homes in the U.S. Are wired with a combination of 15-amp and 20-amp, 120-volt circuits. Because 15-amp receptacles can be used with 20-amp circuits, most of the outlets you see in American homes are the standard 15-amp variety, with two slots and a U-shaped grounding hole. To add to what others have said, this outlet is called a NEMA 5-20R receptacle and it is still widely in use. The ’NEMA 5’ is a three-wire, single phase device rated for up to 125 volts. The 20 denotes the device is rated for 20 amps. The ’R’ at the end denotes that this is a receptacle. The plug side would be a ’P’.
Test your understanding of this concept with this pop quiz. A relative asks you to replace a failed GFCI receptacle at his home, but you notice the home has a 2-wire system without a ground wire. Will that GFCI provide ground-fault protection?
The answer is yes. GFCI protection functions properly on a 2-wire circuit without an equipment-grounding conductor. The equipment-grounding conductor serves no purpose in the operation of the GFCI protection device (Fig. 2). The GFCI uses a small CT on the neutral and the hot but not on the ground. This information is probably in the instructions that come with the new GFCIs.
Does this mean that if you extend a circuit from an ungrounded box you can install a GFCI? No. Permission to replace nongrounding type receptacles with GFCI-protected grounding-type receptacles doesn’t apply to new outlets that extend from an existing ungrounded outlet box. Once you add a receptacle outlet (branch-circuit extension), the receptacle must be of the grounding type and be grounded per 250.130(C) (Fig. Quinault casino restaurant menu. 3).
This requirement may seem inconsistent, but it’s not. Here’s the logic. Your existing two-wire system was installed per the Code that existed at the time. Today’s NEC doesn’t mandate ripping out existing 2-wire systems and replacing them just so you can add a GFCI. Nor does it allow you to add on to the 2-wire system and just throw in a GFCI. A 3-wire system is safer than a 2-wire system. So if you add to an existing system, what you add must be of the 3-wire configuration — not the 2-wire configuration.
Mounting. Have you ever wondered if you can mount a receptacle in a hobby box you just happen to have lying around or in a cutout in the side of a panel where there’s plenty of room and the receptacle is obviously protected? Stop wondering — you can mount a receptacle only in a box designed for the purpose (406.4). Fasten that box securely in place (314.23).
If you mount a receptacle in a box that’s set back from the wall surface, install it so the mounting yoke of the receptacle is held rigidly to the wall surface. If the receptacle sits back too far, break off the “ears” on the yoke and use them as shim washers on the receptacle mounting screws.
In walls or ceilings of noncombustible material, boxes can’t be set back more than 0.25 inches from the finished surface. In walls or ceilings of combustible material, boxes must be flush with the finished surface (314.20). You can’t have gaps greater than 0.125 inches at the edge of the box (314.21).
If you mount a receptacle in a box that’s flush, install it so the mounting yoke of the receptacle is held rigidly against the box or raised box cover. If the receptacle mounts to the cover, it must be secured to the cover with two screws [406.4(C)] (Fig. 4).
Receptacle faceplates must completely cover the outlet opening and seat firmly against the mounting surface (406.5). If a metal faceplate is used, make sure it’s grounded (bonded) by securing it to the receptacle.
Receptacles in damp or wet locations. You can install a receptacle next to, but not within, a bathtub or shower space. Receptacles must be located at least 5 feet from spas or hot tubs [680.21(A)(1) and 680.43(A)(1)].
Receptacles that are installed outdoors under roofed open porches, canopies, marquees, and similar areas but not subjected to beating rain or water runoff require enclosures that are weatherproof only when the attachment plug cap isn’t inserted and receptacle covers are closed [406.8(A)]. Receptacles installed as such are considered to be in damp locations.Double T Slot Receptacle Wall Plate
Those are the requirements for a damp location, but what if you think you have a wet location? Look up “location, wet” in Art. 100 to find the definition. If your location meets this definition, 406.8(B) applies. All 15A and 20A, 125V and 250V receptacles installed outdoors in a wet location must be within an enclosure and cover that’s weatherproof at all times — even when an attachment plug is inserted.
Any other receptacle in a wet location must comply with one of the two following rules:
*
If the equipment plugged into it isn’t attended while in use, the receptacle must have an enclosure that’s weatherproof with the attachment plug cap inserted or removed.
*
If the equipment plugged into it is attended while in use, the receptacle must have an enclosure that’s weatherproof when the attachment plug is removed.
Suppose you flush-mount an outlet box on a wall surface in a wet location. In such a case, you must make the enclosure weatherproof by using a weatherproof faceplate assembly that provides a watertight connection between the plate and the wall surface.Double T Slot Receptacle Adapter
Overlooked requirements. Familiarity with receptacles can cause you to overlook certain requirements. For example, what kind of receptacle can you use with aluminum wire, and how can you wire it? First, look for the marking CO/AL on the terminal screws. These markings are required for all receptacles rated 20A or less and designed for direct connection with aluminum conductors. If the receptacle is rated higher than 20A, see the manufacturer’s instructions or contact the manufacturer to ensure you’re not violating the UL Listing for that receptacle.
Here’s another fact regarding UL. Per UL requirements, aluminum conductors can’t terminate onto screwless (push-in) terminals of a receptacle. More than one installation has been rejected for this practice.
Suppose you wire a receptacle for isolated ground. Do you know how to identify the right kind of receptacle for such an application? It must have an orange triangle marking on its face [250.146(D)].
The requirements for isolated ground receptacles (IGRs) are also commonly forgotten. Keep these in mind:
*
You can use IGRs only with an insulated grounding conductor installed with the circuit conductors.
*
If you install an IGR in a nonmetallic box, you must cover it with a nonmetallic faceplate because you can’t ground (bond) a metal faceplate in such an installation.
What about that question that opened this discussion? The answer is “false.” The NEC doesn’t specify which way to orient a receptacle. The ground terminal can be up, down, or to the side. In the last few Code cycles, proposals to specify the mounting orientation were all rejected.
However, there’s one exception to this non-specification. If you install a receptacle in a countertop or similar work surface in a dwelling unit, you can’t install it in a face-up position.
No matter how much you think you know about Art. 406, you still might find a surprise or two in it, and that’s a good reason to become familiar with it now rather than at inspection time. You’d hate to be cited for something as “simple” as a receptacle requirement, wouldn’t you?
Author: Terry Peterman What exactly is a kitchen split receptacle circuit, and why the confusion with this common household wiring configuration? I received an e-mail from a website visitor who was wondering if there was a problem with a counter outlet in her home. I answer her question in the following video, article and wiring diagram below:Question Regarding a Kitchen Split Receptacle Circuit:
Q: We have an electrical outlet that has 240 to one plug and the other plug has 120. There are three wires involved in this counter top plug; red white and black.
Red plus white = 120 volts
White plus black = 120 volts
Black and red = 240 volts! Ouch!
Any idea on how to fix? – TrishDouble T Slot Receptacle WiringUnderstanding the Kitchen Split Receptacle Circuit:
Trish, what you have is actually a perfectly normal situation which meets the code rules in many electrical jurisdictions. This is what is known as a split receptacle kitchen circuit.
It is fed by a 2-pole, 15A circuit breaker, and uses 14/2 cable. In this situation, the neutral is shared between the two hot wires (red and black) that come from the panel.Double T Slot Receptacle Holder
You are correct in that you do have 240V between the black and the red conductors. However, the receptacle is wired so as to only have 120V in each half of the duplex receptacle, and the brass tab is broken between the top and the bottom half of the receptacle on the hot (brass) side of the device, but remains intact on the neutral side. This way the two circuits that feed this outlet “share” the neutral connection.Kitchen Split Receptacle Circuit Wiring Diagram:
Because the two circuits are from opposite sides of the panel, the neutral will only carry the unbalance load. So if you are using a toaster plugged into the top half, and it is using 8A on circuit #1, and the coffee maker plugged into the bottom half using 6 amps, then the neutral will only be carrying 2 amps of current back to the panel. The maximum that the neutral conductor will carry on a circuit like this is the maximum that one of the appliances that are plugged in will draw.
The new code now requires all kitchen receptacles to be protected by ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) receptacles, and must have at least two 20A circuits supplying general purpose kitchen receptacles.
Split kitchen receptacles are still quite common, and are still allowed in some jurisdictions. Ouverture geant casino besancon lundi de paques pour. However, where the new code rules have been adopted, the existing installations are grandfathered and are not and will not be mandated to be rewired. I personally like the kitchen 3-wire circuits as I think they offer more flexibility on counter top appliance locations and configurations with plenty of capacity to supply the various power requirements. However, the complicating issue and change motivating factor was the requirement for GFCI protected outlets in the kitchen area, and protection of split circuitry is more complicated and more expensive to achieve than using 20A GFCI receptacles with feed-through capability.
Not sure about tackling this yourself? Remember: Can’t do it yourself? Get help from a qualified electrical contractor/
Related posts:
Register here: http://gg.gg/uugq7
https://diarynote-jp.indered.space
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